The Revival of Hanfu: Where Fashion Meets Cultural Renaissance

Welcome to the East Asia Club’s first-ever article! As captains of the East Asian Club, we are dedicated to raising interest in contemporary  East Asian cultures and practices. This prompts our emphasis on a movement reshaping modern China – the revival of the hanfu (漢服). 

A piece of traditional attire worn by the Han Chinese, hanfu has revived its adoptability as a vibrant national trend. But this movement is more than just fashion—it’s a celebration of China’s deep cultural roots, blending historical pride with modern identity.

The ancient style is now gaining huge popularity, particularly amongst younger generations. Between 2015 and 2021, sales of hanfu clothing surged from just 190 million yuan to a staggering 10 billion yuan (approximately USD $1.45 billion), with estimates projecting the market to reach 24.18 billion yuan by 2027​​. As of 2022, over 10.16 million people have embraced the art of wearing hanfu, a substantial increase from the 6 million of the previous year. 

The appeal of hanfu is multifaceted. For many, wearing hanfu symbolises a form of  reconnection with Chinese history and heritage. This is particularly relevant as China continues to modernise at a breakneck pace. The revival has sparked cultural pride among young people, who are increasingly drawn to hanfu for its historical significance and aesthetic beauty. According to a recent survey, nearly 70% of hanfu enthusiasts wear the garments as a means to promote traditional Chinese culture​.

Social media has played a significant role in the revival, with platforms like Weibo and Douyin (China’s version of TikTok) allowing hanfu enthusiasts to share their passion globally. Young influencers have showcased hanfu in everything from historical reenactments to modern street fashion, propelling it from a cultural niche into a mainstream phenomenon.  

Furthermore, the appeal of hanfu lies in its deep connection to Chinese history. In an era of rapid modernization, a relatively easy way to understand one’s heritage can be demonstrated through the simple act of wearing the piece of clothing. For instance, hanfu from the Tang Dynasty (618-907) is known for its elegant, flowing robes, a quality that directly reflects the period’s cosmopolitan nature. This draws a stark contrast to the hanfu from Ming (1368-1644), which represents a more conservative and structured style​. For many, wearing hanfu during festivals, cultural events, and even casual outings is a way to promote traditional Chinese values while asserting their national identity. The hanfu community is especially active during major cultural holidays such as the Mid-Autumn Festival, Chinese New Year, and traditional events like the Hanfu Festival, where enthusiasts gather to celebrate in full attire. Cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu have become vibrant hubs where young people participate in hanfu flash mobs, photo sessions, and public performances​

It is interesting to note that the Chinese government has also been a key player in this cultural revival, as part of a broader push for “cultural confidence.” Promoting traditional elements such as hanfu aligns with China’s emphasis on preserving its rich cultural heritage while fostering national pride. This has provided hanfu with more visibility as a dynamic symbol of China’s cultural renaissance, gaining official support and encouragement​.

However, the movement isn’t without its challenges. Critics argue that many modern iterations of hanfu blend elements from different historical periods, straying from historical accuracy. While some purists seek to preserve the authenticity of hanfu design, others celebrate its creative evolution as a modern interpretation of traditional fashion. Zhao Bo, a curator who was once interviewed by the South China Morning Post, has reproduced ancient hanfu garments, highlights the importance of both approaches, noting that public interest is crucial in keeping this tradition alive.

In sum, the hanfu revival represents a unique blend of historical reverence and modern innovation. For young people, wearing hanfu isn’t just about fashion; it’s a personal statement that connects them with China’s rich cultural history while navigating the complexities of a globalised world. As this movement continues to grow, hanfu has emerged as a powerful symbol of China’s cultural resilience, proving that traditions can be both preserved and reimagined for a new era​.

Stay tuned for more exciting explorations of East Asia’s dynamic cultures from the East Asia Club!

Learn more about hanfu: 

https://multimedia.scmp.com/infographics/culture/article/3241304/hanfu-part-1/

https://www.scmp.com/news/people-culture/trending-china/article/3190171/cultural-power-not-suit-and-tie-hanfu

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Author: Le Dragon Déchaîné

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